Yumzi.2 / Special Salad

Special Salad $12.50
Bread

The Special Salad at Nolita’s Bread is one of my favorite salads in the city. It is made out of mesclun greens, cherry tomatoes, black and green olives, fennel*, Sicilian canned tuna and avocado and is served with their delicious house dressing of extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice and soy sauce. The Sicilian tuna is marinated in olive oil (as opposed to the regular canned tuna in soybean oil you’ll find at your local supermarket), which makes its elegantly flavorful. The vegetables are always super fresh and the green olives are nothing short of amazing. This salad is perfect any day of the week, but I find it to be especially lovely on a Sunday afternoon before attacking the neighborhood’s boutiques. Enjoy :)

* goodness

Bread
20 Spring St. (between Elizabeth & Mott)
(212) 334-1015

Public

Public, appearances can be deceiving

Let’s start with the good stuff. Public, the hip spot in the equally hip Nolita has a very attractive interior, which seems to be populated by an alluring, well-dressed crowd. That’s pretty much all the positive words I can muster. In my (not so humble) opinion, Public is an amateurish, pretentious and extremely over-priced restaurant. It tries too hard to be “food couture” when actually it’s closer to the Dolce & Gabbana tote I got in China Town. Surprisingly, the place is packed every night of the week. The only feasible explanation I can come up with for this weird phenomenon is that either people just don’t really understand good food or that it is packed every night with first timers like Zazi and myself.

We started with two appetizers that sounded very exciting: Cured Wild Boar (1) with garrotxa cheese, marinated olives and caper berries, and a Lentil Salad (2) with green beans, avocado, toasted pecans & baby gem with pomegranate molasses and avocado oil vinaigrette. The cured wild boar was decent. It was kinda like prosciutto covered with a thin layer of lard (I enjoy fatty things, that’s why I wasn’t appalled). The salad was okay, nothing special really that would justify its outrageous $19 price tag. I actually suspect that it was pre-made and delivered to our table straight from the refrigerator.

For entrées Zazi and I shared a Roast Lamb Sirloin (3) on crispy goat cheese polenta with saffron braised baby vegetables and harissa aioli, and Baked Cod (4) with sepia, Chinese long beans, cipollini onions, and chorizo hollandaise. Sounds delish, no? The meat, however, was dry and chewy. The seasoning was Middle Eastern with a top note of some unexpected cumin. I enjoy Middle Eastern cuisine, when I choose to eat it. The crispy goat cheese polenta, which in theory appeared intriguing, was a complete disaster. It was like eating a piece of slightly sour cardboard. The cod put on a gourmet appearance but was actually pretty bland. The sepia was tasty though. Thank god we ordered a side dish of sweet mashed potatoes with miso, which was the only “swallow-worthy” food on the table.

To accompany our meal we ordered a Mt. Difficulty 'Roaring Meg' Pinot Noir 2006 from Central Otago, New Zealand, which was medium bodied and quite nice.

For dessert we ordered the Sticky Toffee Pudding with armagnac ice cream and hot caramel sauce. It was ok, but we were already biased by the time it met our palates. Since this dinner was a bit of a catastrophe, I’ve decided to order myself another drinky delight. The chef recommended pairing a Rutherglen Muscat (non-vintage) from Rutherglen, Australia with our chosen dessert. It was nothing more than aaight.

All in all Public was a waste of time, money and stomach space.

Bottom line: 64 :(

$75+
Public
210 Elizabeth St (Btwn Prince & Spring St)
212-343-7011

Yumzi.1 / Beef Marrow

Beef Marrow and Oxtail Marmalade $16.50
Blue Ribbon Brasserie

Some dishes out there can make me act faux pregnant. I'm not talking about feeling nauseous or gaining weight, but rather being attacked by gastronomical cravings and the uncontrollable need to satisfy them immediately. Those special delights, whether served at a restaurant or bought in a store, need their own spotlight. Say hello to Yumzi.

The beef marrow at Blue Ribbon’s Soho branch definitely deserves to be the dish to devirginize Yumzi. It is so absuf*%#inglutely good. What makes it so good you ask? Well, it’s fatty and decadent and when spread on toast with a dash of sea salt it’s quite sinful. It's accompanied by a slightly sweet oxtail and tomato marmalade (which I refer to as garnish). Have your cardiologist on speed dial.

Blue Ribbon Brasserie
97 Sullivan St. (between Prince & Spring Streets)
(212) 274-0404

cheezi #1

Truffle Tremor $22.99/Lbs
Cypress Grove

This dense goat cheese from Humboldt County, California is charged with a good amount of black truffles, which makes it quite naughty - yet very nice. It is über rich and creamy and thoroughly enjoyable, either with or without a starchy companion.

Murray's Cheese
254 Bleecker St. (between 6th & 7th Ave.)
(212) 243-3289

Kuma Inn

Kuma Inn’s façade looks like the entryway to a sketchy “massage” parlor. It’s located on the second floor of an old building in the lower east side, right above an underground Bulgarian bar that greets you with a sign that was made in power point and printed on an HP inkjet.

Born to a Filipino mom and a Thai dad, King Phojanakong, Kuma Inn’s chef and owner, developed a tapas menu inspired by his childhood upbringing. Zazi and I feasted on a bunch of mini dishes. Unfortunately, they were utterly inconsistent in quality. Therefore, I will attempt a different approach with this review and rate every dish individually. My “bottom line” will represent the average score (give or take a point or two).

1. Yellowfin tuna tartar with rice noodle crisp – 90
The tuna tartar, laid on a bed of cucumbers, was super fresh and was served chilled yet not “straight out of the fridge”. The dressing, a mix of soy sauce and sesame oil, did not overpower in flavor.

2. Pork spareribs – 88
Grilled and braised with garlic, soy sauce, vinegar and coconut milk. The marinade was lightly sweet and very well spiced. The meat, however, was a little dry.

3. Tofu – 92
Sautéed in a spicy soy and mirin sauce with Thai basil and wood ears (Chinese tree mushrooms), the tofu was an absolutely great dish. Thai basil is such a fragrant herb. The dish smelled as good as it tasted.

4. Shrimp shumai – 100
The best shrimp shumai I’ve ever had. Juicy and soft – perfect.

5. Sautéed Chinese sausages – 100
This is, by far, the best dish of the evening. Served on crispy fried onions with a Thai chili-lime dipping sauce and sticky rice. The sausage was spicy and sweet. Dipped in the chili-lime sauce it felt like my mouth was throwing the coolest party in town and I was the guest of honor. Zazi confided in our waitress and whispered; “I want to marry this sauce”. The rice took “sticky” to the next level.

6. Pan roasted ocean scallops – 65
Cooked with bacon, kalamansi (Asian lime) and sake. I was not impressed. It was too fishy. I think I’m just not a big fan of scallops in general. Also, I think the bacon was playing hide and seek with us and we were “it”.

7. Coconut and ginger panna cotta with pomegranate seeds – 100
Wow, this was magical. Airy and lightly sweetened, the coconut, ginger and pomegranate made for a great ménage à trois.

8. Coconut and lemongrass rice pudding – 55
It was bad. The texture was of rice smothered in pudding and the flavor was of a cold side dish, not dessert.

As for booze – Kuma Inn is a BYOB restaurant. This was my first BYOB experience and I must say it was kinda fun. Zazi got us a six-pack of Blue Moon. However, I much prefer having an extensive list of them tipsy-making liquids to choose from.

So, the average comes to 86. I’ll throw in 3 extra points for excellent service, nice dimmed ambiance and prompt seating. Not to mention, the beautiful Bulgarians having a smoke downstairs as you leave the restaurant. Beautiful Bulgarians - who knew.

Bottom line: 89 :)

$35, BYOB

Kuma Inn
113 Ludlow St., 2nd fl. (bet. Delancey & Rivington Streets)
(212) 353-8866

Smith's

Grilled lobster with butternut squash puree and black trumpet mushrooms

Smith’s opened its doors just a few weeks ago and is already behaving like a celebrity when it comes to making a reservation (two weeks in advance). I guess it figures, considering its parents are the masterminds behind Raoul’s and the Mermaid Inn. Zagat describes it as an American restaurant – a descriptive I have to somewhat disagree with. I've noticed a "patriotic" pattern in the restaurant business that bothers me a bit. Every time a restaurant cannot define its cuisine it categorizes itself as “American” or “New American”. Granted, American food does not rely solely on burgers and hot dogs and can definitely be gourmet. Still, just by looking at Smith's menu it’s more than obvious that the force major behind its kitchen is European. Perhaps a new category is in order: Euro-American. Here, however, is where I stop my ranting. Smith’s, the new Euro-American restaurant in the west village, was an exquisite delight across the board.

Zazi and I began our decadent meal by ordering a bottle of 2006 Abbot’s Table from Oregon that was passionately recommended by our waitress. Abbot’s Table is a blend of nine different red wine grapes which, supposedly, makes it compliment a wide range of food. It certainly saluted our meal.

For appetizers we started with a buttery Hudson Valley Foie Gras with black mission fig jam and black pepper. The pâté was served at room temperature, which made it super spreadable. With the sweet and tart fig jam it was pretty close to divine. The only shortcoming was the toast that could have been sliced a little thinner to let the pâté shine even brighter. We continued with a salad of charred baby squid with lemon confit, olives and pancetta. The combination of flavors was precise and fantastic. Nothing was too overpowering. It was, by all means, a team effort.

For our entrées, Zazi went for roasted lamb chops with a tomato and red pepper ragout and parmigiano puree (yes, a puree of cheese! Brilliant!) The lamb was cooked to perfection and the puree, oh the puree. How could that possibly disappoint? I went for the grilled lobster served with butternut squash puree and black trumpet mushrooms. It was absolutely delicious. Lobsters can be very tricky and get too chewy when not cooked right. Fortunately, this wasn’t the case. Our waitress, god bless her soul, suggested that we order 2 side dishes with our entrées. We went for the seductive creamy polenta with a drizzle of black truffle and a cauliflower and Taleggio cheese gratin. Honestly, I’m starting to run out of good adjectives. Both were beyond excellent, especially the polenta. I think I had a dream about it last night. I woke up all sweaty and stuff...

For dessert we ordered the chocolate bread pudding. I feel like I should apologize for this boring review: where’s the ruthless critic I consider myself to be? Well, the bread pudding was great. Sorry, it just was.

Foodzi will definitely revisit (after selling some stuff on eBay).

Bottom line: 98 :)

90+ to feast like royalty

Smith's
79 MacDougal St. (bet. Bleecker & Houston Sts.)
(212) 260-0100

Pylos

Lamb chops with stuffed eggplant and fingerling potatoes

I’m so excited to write this review. It’s always such a thrill to find a great new restaurant (well, new to me). If I had to list my favorite cuisines, the Italian kitchen would definitely be at the top of the list. A second best will probably be Greek food. There’s something about the freshness of Mediterranean cooking that really appeals to my taste buds. Pylos is a little Greek treasure hidden in the East Village. Zazi is a very good pirate.

The space is very well designed. It is intimate yet airy, dimmed and sexy yet vibrant and unassuming. It’s a great spot for a romantic date, as well as perfect for a tête - à - tête with a close friend.

As usual, Zazi and I shared two appetizers. We started with a Maroulosalata, which is a salad comprised of crisp lettuce, dill, scallions and feta – thinly chopped and served with extra-virgin olive oil and fresh lemon dressing. It was the epitome of refreshing. We followed it by elegantly gorging on an Anginares Moussaka, which is a moussaka of artichoke hearts layered with caramelized onions, herbs and three Greek cheeses with béchamel sauce. Artichokes are one of my favorite things in the world, this moussaka did not disappoint.

For our main courses Zazi chose a Greek classic – grilled whole fish drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil and fresh squeezed lemon juice. The fish was perfectly grilled while maintaining its moisture and flavor. I went for grilled baby lamb chops served with stuffed eggplant and fingerling potatoes. The lamb chops were served medium-rare and were juicy and tender. The eggplant and potatoes were great backup dancers to the four divas dominating my plate.

For dessert we ordered a trio of buttery phyllo pastels, triangle shaped, filled with Greek custard and splashed with cinnamon and honey. Zazi took a bite and loved it. Then she had a weird look on her face and said to me with a little worry in her voice: “mmm, try it”. There was a little surprise in the Greek custard called orange peel. There are two things in this world I hate so much I am ready 24/7 to launch a nuclear war at – oranges and bananas. However, and this is a HUGE however, I must admit that the orange peel kinda complimented the pastel. Kinda.

Pylos is a Greek goddess. I highly recommend it.

Bottom line: 97 :)

$60+ with drinks

Pylos
128 E. 7th St. bet. Ave. A & 1st Ave
(212) 473-0220

Caracas Arepa Bar

Guasacaca & Chips

Venezuelan food? Yeah sure, whatever, I’ll try that. Let’s live on the edge, be adventurous, take an effin’ risk goddammit!

Caracas is a tiny Venezuelan spot in the East Village. The place was packed when we got there and we had to wait about 10 minutes for a table (which seemed like a very good sign). While waiting, we eyed the dishes severed to the seated peeps and noticed a pattern – almost everyone ordered what looked like the bastard child of a burger bun and a pita, filled with what we assumed to be “Venezuelan stuff”.

For appetizers, Zazi and I shared a Guasacaca & Chips, an Ensalada La Acida and an Empanada Domino. The Guasacaca is Venezuelan guacamole served with fried plantains, yukas and taro instead of chips. Honestly, I’m not really sure what differentiates the guasacaca from the regular guacamole we all know and love but it doesn’t really matter. It was fresh and delicious and the fried plantains and root veggies were a nice touch. Unfortunately, this guasacaca was the only highlight of our meal… The small salad was made of mixed dwarfed beans (I swear they were tiny), corn and a citrus and passion fruit dressing. The beans were undercooked and even though I’m a big passion fruit fan, its exotic flavor tasted a bit awkward in that casual scenario. The empanada was filled with black beans and “white salty cheese” and was as dull as its description.

The little bastard from earlier is actually called Arepa. Zazi and I selected two to share as an entrée with the help of our waitress (who, btw, was super lovely). We went for a Los Muchachos (grilled chorizo, spicy white cheese with jalapeño and sautéed peppers) and the Arepas du Jour (shredded beef cooked with sugarcane and topped with, yet again, salty white cheese). Both were “eh”. By “eh” I mean the muchachos was way too spicy and greasy for its own good (and this is coming from the founder of the Spice Grease fan club). Also, the meat in the Arepas du Jour was dry and overall tasted pretty bland.

To accompany our meal Zazi sipped on Brahma (Brazilian beer), while I had a glass of Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon (Valdivieso, 2004). Both were fine.

Caracas, in a way, was a little bit like a bad date. You’re not sure what to expect, but you’ve heard so many good things about that person from a credible source that you just have to give it a try. You’re being played the “I’m hard to get” game, and you think to yourself “mmm, I’m frustrated, that makes him so sexy”. You start chatting a little. The conversation is fresh and light and your mind begins envisioning warm wintry nights and a romantic trip to Venezuela. But then he kisses you, kinda aggressively, like a testosteronized 16 year old and you know that a second date just aint gonna happen.

Bottom line: 71 :(

$20+- with drinks

Caracas Arepa Bar
93 1/2 E 7th St, Bet 1st Ave & Ave A
(212) 529-2314

Bar Pitti

I wanted my first blog entry to be on a sizzling new restaurant, but at 8:30 on a Friday night even Jesus can't get a table. So, somewhat disappointed, Zazi and I have decided to go to Bar Pitti where we're always welcomed.

Pitti is undoubtedly my favorite restaurant in NYC. I refer to it as "my kitchen" since I literally live across the street. Granted, I have enjoyed better food in the Big Apple, but it usually comes with more digits on the check.

I've been a regular customer for the past 4 years, and between Zazi and I, we've tasted almost everything on the menu (except for the paninies, which always seemed like a waste of time).

Last night we started with the usual spinaci (sautéed spinach) and beef carpaccio (for lack of a better agreed-upon option on the specials menu). The spinaci is sautéed in olive oil and garlic. The carpaccio is served with tossed arugula and shaved Parmesan cheese, and it is escorted by a wedge of lemon (that was most certainly used). Both were delicious, though the bread has had a long day and was a little dry. The spinaci, btw, is a MUST. Trust me.

For the main course Zazi ordered the Veal Milanese (a thin piece of veal breaded then fried, served with the bone). The Milanese comes with a salad on top comprised of tomatoes, cucumbers and arugula. The dressing is a mix of 3 different vinegars and fresh chopped garlic. The good thing about Pitti is its owner, Giovani, who picks the produce himself and has impeccable standards. So, if the tomatoes are not plump enough, they will NEVER end up on your plate. Zazi gave her Milanese a high-five. I went for the Linguini Vongole (clam sauce). This delight contains fresh clams, white wine and a hint of tomato sauce. The linguini was perfectly al dente. I ate like a good girl.

To accompany our meal we ordered two glasses of the house’s red wine (Multipuciano) to which we fondly refer to as The Vinegar. If Pitti needs to improve something it’s their wine by the glass selection (right now they only offer one possibility for either red or white).

All in all, it was another great dinner at my favorite kitchen.

Tip: before ordering, always check what’s on the specials menu. It’s written in Italian which makes it annoying, but have the waiter translate it for you.

Recommended dishes from the regular menu: penne bolognese (ask for spaghetti instead), pappardelle Alla fiesolana, taglierini all' empolese (ask for spaghetti instead of their homemade taglierini)

Recommended dishes from the specials menu: spinaci, puntarelle (chicory with white anchovy dressing), carciofi (sautéed baby artichokes), papardelle with wild boar ragout, lamb chops

Bottom line - 95 :)

50+ with drinks

Bar Pitti
268 6th Avenue (between Bleecker & Houston)
(212) 982-3300