November 26, 2007

Smith's

Grilled lobster with butternut squash puree and black trumpet mushrooms

Smith’s opened its doors just a few weeks ago and is already behaving like a celebrity when it comes to making a reservation (two weeks in advance). I guess it figures, considering its parents are the masterminds behind Raoul’s and the Mermaid Inn. Zagat describes it as an American restaurant – a descriptive I have to somewhat disagree with. I've noticed a "patriotic" pattern in the restaurant business that bothers me a bit. Every time a restaurant cannot define its cuisine it categorizes itself as “American” or “New American”. Granted, American food does not rely solely on burgers and hot dogs and can definitely be gourmet. Still, just by looking at Smith's menu it’s more than obvious that the force major behind its kitchen is European. Perhaps a new category is in order: Euro-American. Here, however, is where I stop my ranting. Smith’s, the new Euro-American restaurant in the west village, was an exquisite delight across the board.

Zazi and I began our decadent meal by ordering a bottle of 2006 Abbot’s Table from Oregon that was passionately recommended by our waitress. Abbot’s Table is a blend of nine different red wine grapes which, supposedly, makes it compliment a wide range of food. It certainly saluted our meal.

For appetizers we started with a buttery Hudson Valley Foie Gras with black mission fig jam and black pepper. The pâté was served at room temperature, which made it super spreadable. With the sweet and tart fig jam it was pretty close to divine. The only shortcoming was the toast that could have been sliced a little thinner to let the pâté shine even brighter. We continued with a salad of charred baby squid with lemon confit, olives and pancetta. The combination of flavors was precise and fantastic. Nothing was too overpowering. It was, by all means, a team effort.

For our entrées, Zazi went for roasted lamb chops with a tomato and red pepper ragout and parmigiano puree (yes, a puree of cheese! Brilliant!) The lamb was cooked to perfection and the puree, oh the puree. How could that possibly disappoint? I went for the grilled lobster served with butternut squash puree and black trumpet mushrooms. It was absolutely delicious. Lobsters can be very tricky and get too chewy when not cooked right. Fortunately, this wasn’t the case. Our waitress, god bless her soul, suggested that we order 2 side dishes with our entrées. We went for the seductive creamy polenta with a drizzle of black truffle and a cauliflower and Taleggio cheese gratin. Honestly, I’m starting to run out of good adjectives. Both were beyond excellent, especially the polenta. I think I had a dream about it last night. I woke up all sweaty and stuff...


For dessert we ordered the chocolate bread pudding. I feel like I should apologize for this boring review: where’s the ruthless critic I consider myself to be? Well, the bread pudding was great. Sorry, it just was.


Foodzi will definitely revisit (after selling some stuff on eBay).

Bottom line: 98 :)

90+ to feast like royalty

Smith's
79 MacDougal St. (bet. Bleecker & Houston Sts.)
(212) 260-0100

November 18, 2007

Pylos

Lamb chops with stuffed eggplant and fingerling potatoes

I’m so excited to write this review. It’s always such a thrill to find a great new restaurant (well, new to me). If I had to list my favorite cuisines, the Italian kitchen would definitely be at the top of the list. A second best will probably be Greek food. There’s something about the freshness of Mediterranean cooking that really appeals to my taste buds. Pylos is a little Greek treasure hidden in the East Village. Zazi is a very good pirate.


The space is very well designed. It is intimate yet airy, dimmed and sexy yet vibrant and unassuming. It’s a great spot for a romantic date, as well as perfect for a tête - à - tête with a close friend.


As usual, Zazi and I shared two appetizers. We started with a Maroulosalata, which is a salad comprised of crisp lettuce, dill, scallions and feta – thinly chopped and served with extra-virgin olive oil and fresh lemon dressing. It was the epitome of refreshing. We followed it by elegantly gorging on an Anginares Moussaka, which is a moussaka of artichoke hearts layered with caramelized onions, herbs and three Greek cheeses with béchamel sauce. Artichokes are one of my favorite things in the world, this moussaka did not disappoint.

For our main courses Zazi chose a Greek classic – grilled whole fish drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil and fresh squeezed lemon juice. The fish was perfectly grilled while maintaining its moisture and flavor. I went for grilled baby lamb chops served with stuffed eggplant and fingerling potatoes. The lamb chops were served medium-rare and were juicy and tender. The eggplant and potatoes were great backup dancers to the four divas dominating my plate.

For dessert we ordered a trio of buttery phyllo pastels, triangle shaped, filled with Greek custard and splashed with cinnamon and honey. Zazi took a bite and loved it. Then she had a weird look on her face and said to me with a little worry in her voice: “mmm, try it”. There was a little surprise in the Greek custard called orange peel. There are two things in this world I hate so much I am ready 24/7 to launch a nuclear war at – oranges and bananas. However, and this is a HUGE however, I must admit that the orange peel kinda complimented the pastel. Kinda.

Pylos is a Greek goddess. I highly recommend it.

Bottom line: 97 :)

$60+ with drinks

Pylos
128 E. 7th St.
bet. Ave. A & 1st Ave
(212) 473-0220

November 14, 2007

Caracas Arepa Bar

Guasacaca & Chips

Venezuelan food? Yeah sure, whatever, I’ll try that. Let’s live on the edge, be adventurous, take an effin’ risk goddammit!

Caracas is a tiny Venezuelan spot in the East Village. The place was packed when we got there and we had to wait about 10 minutes for a table (which seemed like a very good sign). While waiting, we eyed the dishes severed to the seated peeps and noticed a pattern – almost everyone ordered what looked like the bastard child of a burger bun and a pita, filled with what we assumed to be “Venezuelan stuff”.


For appetizers, Zazi and I shared a Guasacaca & Chips, an Ensalada La Acida and an Empanada Domino. The Guasacaca is Venezuelan guacamole served with fried plantains, yukas and taro instead of chips. Honestly, I’m not really sure what differentiates the guasacaca from the regular guacamole we all know and love but it doesn’t really matter. It was fresh and delicious and the fried plantains and root veggies were a nice touch. Unfortunately, this guasacaca was the only highlight of our meal… The small salad was made of mixed dwarfed beans (I swear they were tiny), corn and a citrus and passion fruit dressing. The beans were undercooked and even though I’m a big passion fruit fan, its exotic flavor tasted a bit awkward in that casual scenario. The empanada was filled with black beans and “white salty cheese” and was as dull as its description.

The little bastard from earlier is actually called Arepa. Zazi and I selected two to share as an entrée with the help of our waitress (who, btw, was super lovely). We went for a Los Muchachos (grilled chorizo, spicy white cheese with jalapeño and sautéed peppers) and the Arepas du Jour (shredded beef cooked with sugarcane and topped with, yet again, salty white cheese). Both were “eh”. By “eh” I mean the muchachos was way too spicy and greasy for its own good (and this is coming from the founder of the Spice Grease fan club). Also, the meat in the Arepas du Jour was dry and overall tasted pretty bland.

To accompany our meal Zazi sipped on Brahma (Brazilian beer), while I had a glass of Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon (Valdivieso, 2004). Both were fine.

Caracas, in a way, was a little bit like a bad date. You’re not sure what to expect, but you’ve heard so many good things about that person from a credible source that you just have to give it a try. You’re being played the “I’m hard to get” game, and you think to yourself “mmm, I’m frustrated, that makes him so sexy”. You start chatting a little. The conversation is fresh and light and your mind begins envisioning warm wintry nights and a romantic trip to Venezuela. But then he kisses you, kinda aggressively, like a testosteronized 16 year old and you know that a second date just aint gonna happen.

Bottom line: 71 :(

$20+- with drinks

Caracas Arepa Bar
93 1/2 E 7th St, Bet 1st Ave & Ave A
(212) 529-2314

November 4, 2007

Bar Pitti

I wanted my first blog entry to be on a sizzling new restaurant, but at 8:30 on a Friday night even Jesus can't get a table. So, somewhat disappointed, Zazi and I have decided to go to Bar Pitti where we're always welcomed.

Pitti is undoubtedly my favorite restaurant in NYC. I refer to it as "my kitchen" since I literally live across the street. Granted, I have enjoyed better food in the Big Apple, but it usually comes with more digits on the check.

I've been a regular customer for the past 4 years, and between Zazi and I, we've tasted almost everything on the menu (except for the paninies, which always seemed like a waste of time).

Last night we started with the usual spinaci (sautéed spinach) and beef carpaccio (for lack of a better agreed-upon option on the specials menu). The spinaci is sautéed in olive oil and garlic. The carpaccio is served with tossed arugula and shaved Parmesan cheese, and it is escorted by a wedge of lemon (that was most certainly used). Both were delicious, though the bread has had a long day and was a little dry. The spinaci, btw, is a MUST. Trust me.

For the main course Zazi ordered the Veal Milanese (a thin piece of veal breaded then fried, served with the bone). The Milanese comes with a salad on top comprised of tomatoes, cucumbers and arugula. The dressing is a mix of 3 different vinegars and fresh chopped garlic. The good thing about Pitti is its owner, Giovani, who picks the produce himself and has impeccable standards. So, if the tomatoes are not plump enough, they will NEVER end up on your plate. Zazi gave her Milanese a high-five. I went for the Linguini Vongole (clam sauce). This delight contains fresh clams, white wine and a hint of tomato sauce. The linguini was perfectly al dente. I ate like a good girl.

To accompany our meal we ordered two glasses of the house’s red wine (Multipuciano) to which we fondly refer to as The Vinegar. If Pitti needs to improve something it’s their wine by the glass selection (right now they only offer one possibility for either red or white).

All in all, it was another great dinner at my favorite kitchen.

Tip: before ordering, always check what’s on the specials menu. It’s written in Italian which makes it annoying, but have the waiter translate it for you.

Recommended dishes from the regular menu: penne bolognese (ask for spaghetti instead), pappardelle Alla fiesolana, taglierini all' empolese (ask for spaghetti instead of their homemade taglierini)

Recommended dishes from the specials menu: spinaci, puntarelle (chicory with white anchovy dressing), carciofi (sautéed baby artichokes), papardelle with wild boar ragout, lamb chops

Bottom line - 95 :)

50+ with drinks

Bar Pitti

268 6th Avenue (between Bleecker & Houston)
(212) 982-3300